All Stitched Belts

Please see the specific product for current lead times and ability to jump the line.

All Holsters

Lead time varies depending on current demand. We are now backed up many weeks out in orders so please check the specific holster product page for more info on the current lead time. I also offer the ability to skip the line for a premium fee (which equates to me working overtime to get your order out faster). This is a selectable option when placing the holster order.

Below are the answers to some of the most asked questions I have received in the past. If you still need help, feel free to contact me here.

1. Do not force your gun into the holster when you first try it out, you may not be able to remove it!

2. Please follow the Break-in procedure linked here.

There are a lot of things I do differently to build a higher quality holster. Every holster I make is designed specifically for that make and model of gun. This means the shape and size is cut exactly for that model. The stitch line is adjusted to be as tight to the gun as possible as well for excellent retention. There is no ‘one size fits all’ here. For example, when you purchase a holster for the Glock 19, your holster will be made to precisely fit the Glock 19 and no other gun.

My holsters are firmer and retain the shape much longer than any other competing maker. This is due to a unique process I developed that combines wet forming, baking and hot wax hardening. Pretty much every other maker out there will take the faster and easier route of using synthetic acrylic finishes to seal and ‘harden’ the leather. The problem is that this is a very temporary touch and is meant to get the holster out the door as quickly as possible. I use an age old method of leather hardening dating back several thousand years (no joke!). Hot wax hardening has been used by cultures worldwide to create leather armor that is practically impenetrable. When you receive your holster it will feel almost as hard as a rock (that’s a good thing for a leather holster!), yet it will still have the subtle flex needed for incredible retention and durability. I developed my technique of hot wax hardening over several years of experimentation. Not too many leatherworkers are willing to commit to that length of time in developing one of the most important processes in holster making. The added benefit is that your holster will also become extremely water resistant, resistant to residual moisture, and resistant to sweat for those that carry every day.

I also create a double line of stitching where the holster will see the most use. This protects the holster from wear for a lot longer.

Have a look around my site, I have been in the leather goods business for many many years now. My brand has become known for building things the right way with the right materials, and backing it all up with customer service.

I use an extremely thick synthetic nylon thread made to hold the sails of ships together. This type of thread is impervious to moisture, chemicals, UV rays, and sweat. It is made so that it will not rot when subjected to high levels of salinity.

Every holster goes through a series of many many different steps before completion. It takes approximately 3 days to finish a holster properly due to various drying, forming and finishing times.

We only use metal that is resistant to rust and degradation. Our snaps are solid brass and are usually plated in nickel or black oxide for color. The tension screws and posts are a mix of solid brass and Stainless Steel 18-8 (304)

You should never add any oils or waxes to your holster at any point. Oils tend to soften the leather and make it more pliable. Many commercial leather waxes also contain oil in order to make the wax spreadable. Your holster should have enough pure wax embedded into the fibers to last its lifetime.

Your holster has been hot wax dipped and has a deep layer of beeswax embedded in the leather fibers. This wax practically makes your holster waterproof more so than any other finish I have seen. The wax contributes to color variation in each holster. Also – when parts of the holster bend, such as a retaining strap…or if you sat on your empty holster by mistake, you may notice a crackle effect. This is just the wax bending and flexing and will do no harm.

We use what is called Full-Grain leather. This is the highest quality cut of a leather hide and refers to the uppermost layer of leather. This layer of leather is what helped the cow weather storms, rub against fencing and rocks among other things. There usually is an occasional scar or marking that is natural and will in no way affect the durability of the leather. In addition – since these are hand tooled items, there may be some evidence of that on the leather.

On new holsters this can sometimes happen. The holster needs a bit more time and use to be fully broken in. In the mean time, place your thumb on the rear of the slide as you re-holster. Within a short period of time you will no longer have to do this.

Currently I build holsters for the Glock line of handguns only. At some point I may take on orders for the same holsters fit to different makes, so if you are interested, please make sure to sign up for the Holster Newsletter here. If you are looking to have a custom designed holster, I cannot currently offer that service – please also sign up for the newsletter for updates.

I cover everything sold in my shop with my 100 Year Guarantee. In short it covers defects in material and craftsmanship as described in detail on this page linked here.

Our return policy for holsters is on our shop policies page here.

Part of purchasing from our shop includes agreeing to our liability waiver linked here.